This button is believed to have been made by Gripoix, or at least clearly made using a very similar technique. I got it from a dealer in Paris who I know has bought out overstock of certain items from Chanel.
As far as whether this technique would be appropriately called plique à jour enamel seems to be up for debate. I have heard both opinions, i.e. that yes, it should be called plique à jour because it’s basically the same technique of applying molten glass to metal openwork or that no, it shouldn’t because the openings are too large etc.
So… I will leave that debate to the enamel specialists.
by Matthew Brown
Thanks to Karen Cohen for recommending the video below for reference.
The above is based on the National Button Society's Classification System.
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