THE WORLD OF THE SMALL AND BEAUTIFUL!
by Joan Andersen-Wells
What an amazing world of buttons we all share! One of my very favorite type of buttons are the “Micromosaic Glass Buttons.” We have all learned about the intricate work of mosaics throughout the centuries in human history, but not so much for our treasured world of buttons.
In this article I am going to focus on the history of these elaborate buttons, how they were made and by whom, and NBS Bluebook classification. (editor's note: View all buttons currently tagged as 23-7 Inlay on WRBA.us. Refer also to the beautiful threadback and the cut-steel border faux mosaic buttons.)
The history of these buttons goes all the way back to the 1700’s up to modern days. Buttons and jewelry were created for the wealthy, and for the tourists who visited Italy, the country where most of these art buttons originated from. Large pieces of mosaic art was out of reach for most of the people. St. Peter’s Basilica features over 10,000 square meters of mosaic art. Employed by the Studio del Mosaico Della Fabrice Della Basilica di San Pietro, later known as the Vatican Mosaic Workshop, artists supplemented their income by creating miniaturized versions of their mosaics to sell to customers. So was born the industry of miniaturized art in the form of buttons and brooches!
An Italian artist named Giacomo Raffaelli is widely considered to be the founding father of the art and craft of creating micromosaics in the form of jewelry. While typical micromosaics depicted Rome’s neo-classical landmarks – the ruins of the Roman Forum were a particular favorite – Raffaelli created beautifully arranged naturalistic scenes, inspired by the old master paintings, featuring birds, flowers, animals and landscapes. Other micromosaic artist’s names have been lost in the passage of time. Who they were is somewhat of a mystery, one worth exploring!
Cultures across the world and time have created many amazing mosaic art pieces using the materials found around them. We see these mosaics today in walls, floors, and ceiling art, and of course, in our micromosaic buttons of today! Micromosaic buttons can have hundreds of mini glass pieces cut to create beautiful scenes of buildings, plants, animals and more.
We are blessed to see the works of these artists, who work countless hours to create and design just one button. It is a mind-boggling thought that by just using a magnifying glass, lighting, and tweezers of some kind, these miniature works of art buttons were created! Each button is an individual work of art.
The same techniques used to make pieces of art such as jewelry, snuff boxes, plaques, furniture, and vases, were also used to make our micromosaic buttons; “art in miniature.” Micromosaic glass buttons were often set in brass and a plaster-like glue was used to adhere the small glass pieces to the setting.
The National Button Society’s Blue Book tells us these buttons are classified under Section 8-Glass Mounted in/on Metal, class 8-6, unlisted which includes mosaics. Glass should be the focus of the button. These buttons can also be used on trays if you enter awards with requirements such as architectural, plant/ animal life etc.
Another specific NBS - Blue Book category is listed under Section 23 – Specific Types 23-7.5 Mosaic.
Tiny bits of tesserae, (tes·sera), diversely colored materials (usually glass) set tightly together into a base (typically black, colored glass or goldstone) to create a design; most are mounted in metal.
Determining the age of glass mosaic buttons can be simple to complicated. Earlier work, Div. 1, (pre-1918) has a more polished or smooth surface, and modern buttons are rough to the touch and somewhat uneven.
Micromosaic buttons are made with the same methods as the larger pieces of artwork that require the utmost attention and deliberation to detail and the precision of an artist. The making of the glass for these buttons is a long process and a work of love. The pieces of glass tesserae, which is produced from selected raw materials through the pyro technological processes. This means that the earth materials used to make the small pieces of glass were heated to a very high temperature so that the material would melt together. The tesserae glass is then cut into small pieces of glass used to make these small works of art.
IN SUMMARY
THE CHARACTERISTICS OF MICROMOSAIC BUTTONS ARE:
- Size: Micromosaics are typically small to large buttons, with individual pieces of glass measuring only a few millimeters in size. The most intricate micromosaics can feature up to 5,000 tesserae per square inch in the larger art pieces.
- Materials: Micromosaics are usually made from tiny pieces of colored glass, tesserae, which are arranged to form a larger image or pattern. The glass pieces may be backed with gold or silver foil to enhance their color and reflectivity.
- Technique: The glass tesserae pieces used in micromosaics are typically cut into small irregular shapes and then arranged into a larger pattern or image with tweezers and a lighted magnifier glass. The glass is then set into a cement-like material to hold it in place.
- Subject matter: Micromosaics often depict flowers, birds/animals, insects, people, landscapes, buildings as well as historical or mythological scenes.
- Shapes: Round, oblong, oval, rectangular, square Back mark: Some of mosaic buttons have the back mark of “Italy,” while others have no back mark.
- Durability: Micromosaic buttons are generally very durable, but still must be handled carefully. Pieces of tesserae are sometimes MIA, as they have fallen out and lost, which is sad. This can affect the value of the button. Value: Micromosaic buttons are highly valued by us buttons collectors for their intricate beauty, subject matter, ornateness, and historical significance. Value can be in the $20.00 range to $1000.00’s of dollars, depending on their rarity, artist and subject matter.
- FAMOUS MICROMOSAICS ART YOU SHOULD KNOW:
- Doves of Pliny: In the 2nd century BCE, Sosus of Pergamon, the only mosaic artist whose name was documented in literature, created a micromosaic of doves drinking from a bowl for Hadrian’s villa. Sosus’ motif has continued to inspire artists throughout the millennia.
- The Dream of Karpa Koï bracelet: Roman mosaic and jewelry artist Maurizio Fioravanti creates fewer than ten jewelry pieces a year, with items starting at a minimum of $50,000. This bracelet renders a famous Chinese myth with the micromosaic jewelry techniques mastered by Italian artisans centuries before Fioravanti’s birth.
- Mosaic of Leonardo da Vinci's masterpiece The Last Supper: A monumental commission by Napoleon I, this historic micromosaic was created by Italian mosaicist Giacomo Raffaelli. It is a brilliant tribute to Leonardo's famed masterpiece.
- Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Micro mosaic Brooch. Circa 1850. M.S. Rau. Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Micro mosaic Brooch | M.S. Rau (rauantiques.com)
I have really enjoyed writing this article about micromosaic buttons! They are just stunning little works of art history, that someone has spent hours designing, collecting and processing the glass pieces for color and size, gathering the metal in which the tesserae is set into, glue/plaster to hold pieces in place, magnifying light, staff, getting the pieces to market and the list goes on and on! I hope you all enjoyed learning a bit about the process of micromosaic buttons; I know I have!
SOURCES:
• A Return to the Grand Tour: Micromosaic Jewels from the Collection of Elizabeth Locke - Exhibitions (vmfa.museum)
• Byzantine Art: Characteristics, History. Www.visual-arts-cork.com. November 2016.
• Department of Islamic Art. “Vegetal Patterns in Islamic Art.” In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art
• Dowson, Thomas. "Going Underground at the Baths of Caracalla - Archaeology Travel." Archaeology Travel. (November 2012).
• Gabriel, Jeanette Hanisee, and Angelo Gabriel. Micromosaics: Private Collections. Brian McCarthy, 2016.
• Pietre Dure and the Art of Florentine Inlay by Anna Maria Giusti (2006-05-03)
• Pietre Dire: History & Characteristics | M.S. Rau (rauantiques.com)
• Micromosaics: The Gilbert Collection by Jeanette Hanisee Gabriel
• Micromosaics Private Collections by Jeanette Hanisee Gabriel (2016, Hardcover)
• Micromosaics, Italian Smalti, Stone and Gold, di Mosaico Mosaic Art School – Ravenna, Italy
• Creating Master Works from Tiny Pieces of Glass - The New York Times (nytimes.com)
• Maurizio Fioravanti is a celebrated figure in the rarefied world of micromosaics.
• How to Visit the Vatican’s Mosaic Studio – AFAR
• Detail of micromosaic portrait of Empress Elizabeth Petrovna. Created 1750
• Detail of the Da Vinci's The Last Supper by Giacomo Raffaelli. Source.
• All you need to know about the history of micromosaic | The Jewelry Editor
• Micromosaic Snuff Box. 19th Century. M.S. Rau. Learn more about antique snuff boxes.
• The Big Book Of Buttons, Elizabeth Hughs, Marion Lester
• National Button Society’s 2023 Blue Book
The above is an updated version of the original article by Joan Andersen-Wells published in the Winter 2023 issue of the Oregon Button Society.
